The Maserati BiTurbo

• Buying and Owning a BiTurbo
• Electrical Systems
• Boost Control and Performance (not available)
• Non Factory Parts Information
• Wheels, Tires, Offsets and Alignment (not available)
• Engines, Transmissions and Differential (not available)
• Interior, Sound Systems, and Trim (not available)
• Hydraulics (brakes and clutch) (not available)

Buying and Maintaining the BiTurbo

Bi-Turbos 1982 to 1988

The early Bi-turbo's suffered from a few problems. One magor problem on 1982 to mid 1984s was a sealing problem that allowed coolant to leak into the engine oil. This was fixed on mid 1984 models with o-ring seals. To be sure that your car is not one of these early cars check the engine oil. If it appears milky, or smells of coolant than avoid that vehicle.

These cars in general are failry reliable, but when they break it is very expensive. My personal car has well over 120,000 miles on it (I do not have an exact number because the odometer has quit a few times) and is still going. BiTurbos are a lot of fun, and can be VERY fast. Here are a few things to look for if your in the market for an "affordable exotic".

• Turbos
  Check for smoke on startup. Let engine warm and then "boot it" quickly. If you see clouds of smoke, take off 1800 US dollars for new turbos.

• Boost
  Under full acceleration (engine properly warmed) the turbo gauge should go into or up to the yellow. If it doesn't that could mean a need to replace the MABC unit or the knock sensor. The knock sensors will expire if the engine has been pressure cleaned. Knock senors are not that expensive as far as knock sensors go, BUT it is located under the intake manifold and can be a pain to get at. MABC units are expensive.

• Oil Leaks
  The cars will leak a little oil. They tend to leak around the cam box covers, on the sides (turbo return lines) and also in the back (differential). The cure for the cam box covers is to seal the cam box with motorcycle head gasket "maker". I have had very good luck with a product called yamabond by Yamaha. The turbos oil return lines are an easy fix for those leaks, and inexpensive also. Make sure that the oil leak is NOT from the sump. As this is expensive, and means that the car probably hit something hard.

• Clean oil
  These cars REQUIRE synthetic oil, especially the early cars (pre 1986). Change the oil and filter every 3000 miles. Failure to due so will result in blown turbos. I went through 2 sets of turbos in 9 months. I then switched to synthetic oil (5 years ago) and have not had to replace the turbos since. The oil may be expensive, but the alternative is even more so.

• Wheel Bearings
  The cars have weak front wheel bearings. These bearings should be repacked once a year or so. They tend to fail more often than on most other cars. These bearings can be replaced with non maserati bearings and are pretty easy to install. I have the federal mogul part numbers for these bearings, can be found in the Non factory parts section of this page. To check to see if your car has failing wheel bearings take a hold of the front wheel and "shake it". You should not feel any play or looseness in the wheel. If you do, negotiate price accordingly.

• Rust
  Check in all the usual locations, rocker panels around the windows etc. Rust is not that serious a problem as long as it has not been allowed to get to far. BiTurbos are prone to rust under the trunk/boot lid, near the rear window.

• Cam Belts
  The cam belts should be replaced once every 30,000 miles or half that time (15,000) if you have had one of the following things occur, an overheat, an over rev and sitting for long periods of time with no use (more than 6 months). I prefer to do it once a year, as it allows inspection of the cam belt tensioner pulley, and the water pump. When in doubt, replace it. When a cam belt breaks it tends to bend valves.

• Valves
  The valves need to be adjusted once every 30,000 miles. Otherwise they (the valves) make noise, and the car does not produce power. A valve job is expensive because it takes so much time. At least 15 hours according to the factory. My mechanic doesn't even like to do it with the engine in the car!! (he complains the car is to low, and the space to cramped, but I make him suffer anyway :) If the car has not had a valve job done recently, or no record is available on when it was last done, then have it performed. Negotiate price accordingly.

• Later BiTurbos
  The cars produced in 1986 and after had a number of advances. They had a fuel injetion system instead of the more trouble prone carburateurs, and water cooled turbos for longer turbo life. They also went to a 5 bolt pattern for the wheels which makes it MUCH easier for one to get after market wheels for the cars.

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Electrical Systems

Fuses and Fuse boxes

The early Biturbo's suffered from a week electrical system, especially considering the load that the air conditioning (a.c.) placed on the electrical grid. The fuse for the a.c. was too small and the factory had the dealers solder a larger glass bulb type fuse holder in place to take care of the problem. Most Biturbos (until mid 85 to early 86) have the printed circuit IN their fuse block break or the fuse box itself melt or smoke, causing various electrical gremlins to appear in the car. The new, and readily available fuse blocks cure this, and they are not that expensive. Installation is a snap. If you have an early Biturbo, save yourself some grief and be sure that it has the newer fuse box. It's the fuse box that allows the a.c. to work and uses all the bullet type "open" European fuses, if your car has something soldered in the fuse block that accepts the glass bullet type fuse (typical of older american cars), then you still have the older fuse block.

The Alternator

A lot of people think the Biturbo's normal 65 amp 14 volt alternators is not up to the job. You can rewire your current unit for higher ouput or buy a larger alternator. Some people have even fitted GM alternators to their Biturbo. Call the people at MIE - I'm sure they can help. Personally I have had no trouble with my system except the slight dimming of my bright lights when the a.c. is on, but I have moved my battery to the trunk, and installed MUCH better battery cables (00 extra fine welding cable), with a LARGE deep cycle battery.

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• Spark PLugs Plugs: Autolite AC Bosch NGK Split Fire SF6C
• Oil Filter: FRAM PH3589
• Air Filter: FRAM CA4415 : Purolator A34762
• Module: Filko DR-300, GM Trucks/cars, etc, 1875990
• Mag Pickup: Filko MA-450, Fiat 1979-1983, 9936331 [number not confirmed]
• Alternator: Lester# 14558, 14293, or 14057 (65 amp model) [GM part # S10??] (orig. Marelli 63307801)
• Struts (frnt): Bilstein AK1220 [from ASI (619-584-2890)]
• Brake Pads: Lucas 294, (actually is Axxis GPX294) {evidently same as BMW 2002}
• Front Rotors: Lucas GR427
• Steering Rack: TRW Italia
• pinion seal on steering rack GACO 34001380 IN51123
• VW Rabbit thermo fan switch(lowest temperature activation switch)
• Front Wheel Bearings Federal Mogul : inner A6 outer A2

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copyright (c) 1994/1995/1996/1997/1998/1999/2000 by Aaron Gee.
All Rights reserved.