
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 13:46:38 GMT+1200
From: "Mark Battley"
Subject: OK HERES ONE FOR YOU
<76 LANCIA SCORPION ALTERNATOR GOOD !
I'll try the trivial first. My guess:
Could be a bad connection between the battery wires and the posts on the
battery: remove clamps, clean (sandpaper) posts and inside of clamps,
replace.
If the connection is dirty it will give you enough amps to provide normal
power (and even charge the battery), but it won't flow enough current for
the starter. When you jump start it you connect directly to the
clamps/wires.
I have actually had this with a Lancia HPE, although there's no reason why
it should be Lancia specific! Sometimes fine, sometimes not, and generally
more likely to occur when the car was hot.
Mark Battley
Auckland, New Zealand.
1974 Alfa Romeo 2000 GTV
1989 Fiat Croma
Alfa Romeo 105 series Bertone Coupe home page and register at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1806/105GTV.HTML
Next
Article
Previous
Article
Back to the table of contents
Respond to the
Digest
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 22:38:19 EST
From: Abarth750
Subject: Lancia scorpion hard start
In a message dated 98-03-22 20:33:31 EST, you write:
<< OK HERE'S ONE FOR YOU GUY'S
76 LANCIA SCORPION ALTERNATOR GOOD !
BATTERY GOOD (BRAND NEW 800CC 120 MIN RESERVE)
I CAN RUN THE CAR FOR AN HOUR AND SHUT IT OFF WONT START LIKE BATTERY IS
DEAD IF I JUMP START IT STARTS RIGHT UP??
BAD GROUND??
RELAY?? >>
I had this same problem in a Beta coupe. I replaced the starter and this cured
it. My only guess is that when the starter warmed up the fields broke down,
and the extra boost from a jump was enough to get it going.
Next
Article
Previous
Article
Back to the table of contents
Respond to the
Digest
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 21:49:58 -0600
From: Ken Stevenson
Subject: Re: OK HERES ONE FOR YOU
I had a problem with not starting after my Beta was fully warmed up. My
contention is that the ignition switch is not passing enough current to
the starter solinoid. My successful cure was to run a heavy gauge wire
from the battery to an auxillary starter button and then to the starter
solinoid.
Your choice, a new ignition switch and or heavier gauge wire OR the push
button switch go-around the ignition switch meathod. A plus with the
latter, it is fun having a push button starter.
All of the grounding occurs at the starter, the job at hand is to get
more voltage to the starter. For whatever reason, more voltage is
required when the starter is hot.
>>
I CAN RUN THE CAR FOR AN HOUR AND SHUT IT OFF WONT START LIKE BATTERY IS
DEAD IF I JUMP START IT STARTS RIGHT UP??
>>
Regards,
Ken Stevenson Dallas, Texas
1977 Lancia Monte Carlo - Argento - AR 3.0 project
1991 Alfa Romeo 164L - Nero
Next
Article
Previous
Article
Back to the table of contents
Respond to the
Digest
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 23:36:09 -0600
From: Csaba Vandor
Subject: Re: sloppy steering
>>I was driving down the road at about 30 Mph and could turn the
>>steering wheel about 1/4 - 1/3 around without any resistance
>>from the tires.
>The steering box needs adjusting. There is a large nut on the steering box
>with a screw in the center of it.
>
If it has THAT much play in it, it may very well be beyond the adjustability
of the steering box, and it may need a new one at $400 or so (or a good used
one).
Bye,
Csaba
_______________________________________________________________ ___
Csaba Vandor - Volvo enthusiast and Fiat fanatic _/_[_\__
FOR SALE:'83 245DL $1200! '70 124 Spider '-O----O-'
Mechanical Power Technology Student from Hungary
Oklahoma State University Seeking Employment!
Next
Article
Previous
Article
Back to the table of contents
Respond to the
Digest
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 09:04:18 +0100 (MET)
From: Douglas Mancini - Order Manager - OFC Netherlands
Subject: Re: Painted Cam Covers
What's even cooler, if you have a lancia, is to wrincle paint the covers and
then 'buff' away the paint from the raised script so The Lancia stands out. This
is done originally on my friends Fulvia.
- - D
> From: "Bruce Matthews"
> To:
> Subject: Painted Cam Covers
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 22:20:11 -0500
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> X-Priority: 3
> X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
> X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.71.1712.3
>
> > I can't remember who it was, possibly Bruce Mathews painted the valve
> covers
> > on his Spider with a red wrinkle coat paint. Looked real nice but I can't
> > find it. I thought Eastwood sold it but I can't find it in their current
> > catalog.
> >
> > Where can you find this paint?
> >
> Yes I used VHT paint...think that was what it was called...have can at
> shop...Its a high heat paint that was very easy to use. I had buffed my
> engine parts to a mirror but they would start to regress over time. I had
> put Lancia cam covers that looked great on the bench but after I put the FI
> hoses back on, can only see the vaines, not the "Lancia" unless you really
> look. Jim..thanks for remembering!
>
> Bruce's Parts Bin PH. 609-358-1555
> PO BOX 301, Blackwood, N.J. 08012
> E-Mail: fiatparts@juno.com or bruces@fiatparts.com
> Internet: http://www.fiatparts.com
> PH. 609-358-1555 Bruce's Parts Bin
>
>
Next
Article
Previous
Article
Back to the table of contents
Respond to the
Digest
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 08:45:22 -0500
From: James Seabolt
Subject: Dual 40s
In prepartion for my current project, my 1981 2000 Spider, I'd like some
tips on fine tuning my dual 40s.
I am hoping that I will be able to just slap them on and the car will even
start since they came from a running car.
As opposite as it may sound, I understand how fuel injection works very
well, but I have very little knowledge when dealing with carburators. But I
am about to learn.
How do you fine tune these things?
I don't have them in front of my face, but there are two screws on the
backside of the each carbs. What do they do? Does one set the mixture at
idle and the other one under load?
Or is one the air adjustment and the other one is the fuel?
I'm not sure if there are any other adjustment screws on them.
I have also invested in a multi-carb adjustment tool.
Also will these carbs work OK on a stock 2 liter engine? If so how much HP
will they give me in comparision to a fuel injected 2 liter engine?
I've decided not to use the 1438 cams. Too much trouble having to move half
a dozen things around just for the distributor.
I was told by a trustworthy source that by using just the 1438 cam gears
with the 2 liter cams would give me a edge. How would changing the cams
gears do anything?
I have also heard (and seen) these carbs will foul plugs if the engine idles
long enough. Any suggestions on this? I like BOSCH platnums. Will the "old
standby" heat range be sufficient or should I step up the high range a bit?
As I said before, the fuel injection system is in bad shape so I have
decided not to rescue it.
Also what size electric fuel pump do I need (gallons per hour)? Will any work?
Concerning my "running" 80 model, Some of you maybe happy to know that I
have just about broke my habit of using 3500 rpms as a rev limit. Since I
fixed the vacuum advance and advanced the static timing to 15 BTDC, the car
really moves on now so I let it go to 5500 rpms!!
It would almost be like comparing a non turbocharged car to a turbocharged
car. That much difference.
Then this smell of oil fills the cabin! Need to fix the leaky cam cover.
I cannot belive how much advancing the timing 5 degrees really makes.
Perhaps the reason I didn't rev it past 3500 rpms before was because I
thought it was a waste of time because it took it forever to get to 3500 rpms.
The X 1/9 will be next.
I set my knock sensor to minimum and now it doesn't show the engine to be
knocking nor can I hear it knock so I think it's where it should be.
James Seabolt -----> mailto:jseabolt@preferred.com
Webpage: http://pages.preferred.com/~jseabolt
ICQ # : 7344463
United States
1980 FIAT 2000 Spider (injected)
1981 FIAT X 1/9 (Injected)
1994 JEEP Wrangler (2.5l )
1976 Chevrolet Pickup (454 Big Block)
Next
Article
Previous
Article
Back to the table of contents
Respond to the
Digest
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 11:56:34 EST
From: Gemery
Subject: RE: Brava Info?
Looks like I can answer my own question about 131/Bravas:
'75 2-door weighs 24xx lbs
4-door weighs 24xx lbs
'76-78 2-door weighs 2350 lbs
4-door weighs 2375 lbs
'78+ 2-door weighs 2435 lbs
4-door weighs 2460 lbs
The last of the US Bravas (1995cc FI) was clocked at 0-60 mph in 11.6 seconds.
All this information came courtesy of a wonderful book titled "Field Spotters
Guide to Imported Cars". If you want to know sticker price and what options
are on what cars, engine specs, kerb weights, and (if someone published
figures) performance specifications for the past 30 years of foreign cars
imported to the US, this is it. Highly recommended as a resource!
Why was I interested in the Brava info? SCCA's Street Prepared autocross
classifications allow updating/backdating of engines and transmissions and
differentials as whole units if the cars are on the same line in the infamous
Appendix A (car classifications). All 131/Bravas are one line, ta-da!
Which means the 1995cc engine may be moved from a Brava with 3.57:1
differential to the first automatic tranny 131 ('76) with a 4.44:1
differential. The effect is to reduce weight by 3.5% while gaining 20% in
torque, meaning that the 0-60 mph interval should drop to about the 9 second
range. Top speed drops by 20%, but Street Prepared improvements (raising
factory redline) let you recoup 10% of that. The result would be a very
quick, cheap streetable car that can strike at the hearts of Datsun 510
drivers.
Back to my regularly scheduled project...
George Emery
gemery@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/gemery/scorpion.html
Next
Article
Previous
Article
Back to the table of contents
Respond to the
Digest
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 15:01:35 -0800
From: "Harper, Kevin"
Subject: Performance for 850
I've built several 124 and X1/9 performance engines, and
literature is readily available for these cars, but now I'm trying to
hotrod one of my 850's. Is there any literature out there that tells =
you
of power secrets or pitfalls to avoid.
Right now I have high compression pistons, 11.1-1 compression
ratio, a 35-75 290=B0 cam, but I'm worried about the rods,(Polish and =
shot
peen?), crank, but most of all how do I get power out of this head, and
what is the best carburation to use.
Any info will be helpful.
K L H
PS I am currently on this list also as Abarth750@aol.com. I will be
dropping this service soon and activationg a new service. If you are
trying to contact me through my old server please reply to this one
(This is my work server) til I get a new home server.=20
AOL sucks =20
Next
Article
Previous
Article
Back to the table of contents
Respond to the
Digest
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 07:30:45 +0100
From: Marc Kloosterman
Subject: Director Alfa Centro Stile goes USA
Dunno if this has been mentioned before (hey, the event I'm describing may
even been over now!), but there was a little bit about Carmel in the
February/March 1998 issue of 'Auto & Design', the leading Italian car
manufacturers magazine (which other mag has advertisments of Ital Design or
Pininfarina?).
- ---
In a pleasant and consolidated tradition, this year will again see the
Italian car as protagonist in the USA. The 1998 edition of the 'Concours
Italiano' held at Carmel, in California, is dedicated to Alfa Romeo, which
will be represented by over 150 historic models, some of which bodied by
Bertone, Pininfarina, Touring and Zagato. Guest of honour is Walter de'
Silva, Director of the Alfa Romeo style centre. Further information is
available on the Internet at the site:
http://www.maseratinet.com/concours.html
- ---
As all Alfisti probably now by now, Walter de' Silva was responsible for
the design of the Alfa 156, the European Car of the Year 1998.
Marc
Next
Article
Previous
Article
Back to the table of contents
Respond to the
Digest
End of italian-cars-digest V7 #79
copyright (c) 1996 by Aaron Gee. all rights reserved.
Please see copyright
notice.